Nubra Valley, Ladakh, India

-->

Location

Nubra Valley is located North of Leh at a distance of 120 kms from Leh. Apporach to Nubra Valley is by road from Leh across Khardongla (18383ft)-the world highest motorable pass. Leh is the principal district & town of Ladakh in Jammu & Kashmir state. Average altitude of Nubra Valley is 10000 ft from sea level.

Nubra Valley

Bordering Chinese Turkistan (Xianjag) on the North & Pakistan on the west, Nubra Valley is located between Karakoram Mountain on the North & Ladakh Mountain on the South. In history, Nubra was called Ldrumra. In vernacular language Ldrumra means the Valley of flowers. Geographical features like Cress cross running rivers, green belt river basin of seabuck forest bearing berries, lofty & majestic mountains of Karakoram & Himalaya, full blown vegetated Villages (some truely oasis of desert), silvered colour sand dunes, white & black pebbles all together join to romance & compose Nubra Valley the Valley of flowers. 

Mountains, Peaks & Glacier

 Karakoram Mountain houses the highest peak of J&K state and highest & largest glacier of the world. 17000 ft high & 11 kms long Siachen glacier is in Karakoram. The highest peak- Saser Kangri which is 25344 ft (7680mts) is also in Karakoram. Rimo (Rimo 1,2,3- the group of peaks), Saser 1 & 2, Mamosthong, Indira Col. Argalas & several other peaks (all above 25000ft) are also in Eastern Karakoram. The K2 - the 2nd highest peak of the world is in Pakistan Karakorum. India’s Himalaya is linked with Hindukush of Afghanistan of Central Asia by Karakoram Mountains.

Geography & Karakoram

Geographically Nubra is linked with Turkistan of Central Asia. Bordering China across karakoram pass is Chinese Turkistan (Xianjang). Yarkend is nearest & principal town of Chinese Turkistan (Xianjang) across Karakoram pass. Karakoram is a Turkish word. It means black pebbles. And in fact the whole of Nubra is dotted with black & white pebbles along the river basin. Seabuck throne forest naturally grown along the riverside is the breeding ground for Bactrian camels. Bactrain camels were brought to Nubra Valley by Hor, the Turkish muslim during the Silk Route trade before 1962.

Shayok & Siachen River

Shayok river

Shayok  & Siachen are Twin Rivers of Nubra Valley. Shayok River originates from two glacier of Karakoram-Chhong Khomdan & Kichik Khomdan. The Turks have named it as big source & small source of water. Flowing from the North side Shayok River takes Southeast direction up to Shayok village near Durbuk & then turns South West direction. Siachen River originates from Siachen glacier. It is a tributary of Shayok River and known as Nubra River also. *Confluence* of two river from the broadest central part of Nubra Valley. And the landmark of this place is the Sand Dune & forest of Sumoor & Lakjung village. Deskit village is across the confluence of river on the Southern Side & Tegar Sumoor village are on the Northern side facing each other. A part of Karakoram Mountain connecting Siachen glacier cut across Nubra Valley and ends up near the confluence touching both the rivers. This is most beautiful scene of Nubra Valley. From here onwards Shayok River flow westward in to Baltistan taking its course through Bogdang &Turtuk village. The villages are irrigated and fertile, producing wheat, barley,peas,mustard for oil, and a variety of fruits and nuts,including apple,apricot and a few almond trees. The region is rich in rare floristic species,being part of one of the world’s biodiversity hot spots, the Himalayas(which contain an estimated 10,000 species of plants, of which about 3,160, belonging to 71 genera are endemic). Some 1,195 species of flowering plants are endemic to the Western Himalayas of which 700 plant species have been recorded from this region. The extreme climatic conditions have resulted in less natural vegetation, with sparse shrubs and trees. There are three main elements of floristic diversity: alpine, desertic, and oasitic. The alpine herbs grow along the edges of melting glaciers. The desertic type covers the upper slopes and valleys, while the oasitic type is found encircling aquifer.

Siachen glacier lies to the north of valley. The Sasser pass and the famous Karakoram pass lie to the northwest of the valley connecting Nubra with Xinjiang. Previously there was trade passing through the area with east Turkistan and Central Asia joining the main silk route.

History of Nubra Valley

Nubra valley of Ladakh is called”LDHUMRA” or the “valley of flowers”. The historians from immemorial have described the beauty of this valley in different languages. Its history is linked with the history of Central Asia as geographically its borders are linked with Chinese Turkistan of Yarkand and Khotan. Central Asian traders were called as Hor in Nubra Valley. Hor were Turkish musilm who used to travel Central Asia and Tibet through silk route. Nubra Valley falls on the Silk Route and people of Nubra used to mingle with products like turquoise stone, carpets, rugs etc and in exchange for local food product like Tsampa, milk, butter, fodder etc. Local Charagas like Tsogs and Nyangskors were utilized by the Hor for their animal transport like camels, mules and horses. Some locals also were hired by Hor to carry their merchandise to Leh and Tibet across Diggar and Khardungla. Sometime they also accompanied Hor up to Karakoram pass.Therefore it is very interesting to look at its history in a broader perspective most of which is hidden in the local intangible oral tradition.

History of Samstanling Gonpa

Maitreya Buddha, Diskit Monastery

The earliest record on Samstanling Gonpa goes back to 1843 when Lama Tsulim Nimma(1st incarnation) visited this monastery. The ideal location of this place mesmerized him and he chose to retreat and meditate here. Located at the elevation of 500 and 1000ft from the twin village of Summor and Tegar repectively, it presents a tranquil and serene environment far away from the squalor of the Village unfurling its natural beauty. The monastery is located at such a dominating state of elevation that the entire central part of Nubra Valley can be viewed both towards west (up to Charasa place) and south (up to Deskit Gonpa). The beautiful scenery of majestically high snow capped mountain ranges (Ladakh and Karakoram) of western Himalayas and green basin of twin rivers (Shyok and Siachen) of the valley from the monastery is awfully breathtaking. And this is the only major monastery in Ladakh, which is surrounded by high vegetation with a varied flora. Vegetation consists of apple, poplar, willow and juniper trees. The land of this monastery is irrigated by Summor Tokpo (rivulet). Of course, wide spread growth of sea buck thorn bushes are below and all along the stream fed irrigated channels of Summor and Tegar village. The technique of farming on the slope of hills in the form of a flight of steps-an innovative way of irrigation, so that the flow of water remains continuous despite the irregular rocky surface. The hard work paid off and the granary became full to the brim with seeds and pulses spreading the aroma of happiness.

Samstaling Monastery, Nubra Valley

A magnificent cave (now sealed) is located beyond the wall of Dukhang Nyingma (old temple), dark interior shrouded in mystery, which lured lama Tsultim Nimma to meditate for a long time. For the lack of written documents exact details of history of this cave are unavailable. However it is true that this monastery was founded by Lama Tsultim Nimma (1st incarnation). Samstanling Gonpa named by Panchen Ripochey on the request of Lama Tsutim Nimma 1st incarnation during an audience in Tibet.

After lama Tsultim Nimma (1st incarnation), the reign of this monastery was taken over by Lama Tsultim Chospel (Stars Rinpochey, 2nd incarnation). His place of retreat was Lhastsas in summor village, which is below the monastery on the other side of rivulet. However he was married and his wife was popularly known as Abey sCham who was equally held with high esteem. There was dairy farm and kitchen garden maintained by the family of lama Tsultim Nimma from where milk and vegetables were supplied to monks of Samstanling Gonpa on daily basis. Those were flourishing days in the history of Samstanling Gonpa. Thus, the Lhastas family contributed immensely in the building the heritage of Samstanling monastery. The present lama Stras Rinpochey is held with high regards as his contribution in building the tradition of this monastery is commendable. The present Stars Rinpochey (known as Jetsun Thupten Nimma Lungtok Stanzin Nurbu) who is 3rd incarnation of Stars Rinpochey of twin monastery of Rizong and Samstanling, is holding the position of Golden Throne or Gaden Tri of Gelugpa tradition of Tibet since October 2009. He has been enthroned on the highest seat of Gelugpa tradition as 102 Gaden Tripa Rinpochey after the announcement by His Holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama of Tibet, Govt in Exile on Oct 26, 2009.His Holiness, the Dalai Lama took the opportunity to talk about the New Gaden Tripa during an event at Norbulingka Institude in Dharamsala to mark the release of set of his biographies on an official ceremony of new Gaden Tripa.

Yet another fortunate chapter added to the history of Samstanling Gonpa is during the era of Stars Rinpochey (present Gaden Tripa) who was holding charge of Regent of Spituk and Sankar Gonpa, the reincarnation of 17th of Bakula has been identified by His Holiness, the Dalai Lama. Therefore the golden history of Summor and Tegar village is written with the blessing of Lord Buddha, His holiness, the 14th Dalai Lama and Gaden Tripa(Stras Rinpochey).

Double hump camel of Nubra Valley

Once serving as the arteries for Central Asian trade linking Silk routes, presently, against a spectacular backdrop of natural aesthetics, the valley preserves the pristine glory of Buddhist pantheon. Making foray into the hearts of itinerants, the valley makes soulful rendition of divinity. As the valley is very green and clean, we would like to keep it in that way. So, don’t litter and respect the local culture prostrating before the Buddha.